Bra Making: How to adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye bra fastener

How to adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye bra fastener

You’ve bought your sewing pattern and your chosen hook and eye bra fastener is too big (or too small) for your sewing pattern – what do you do? Don’t panic! It’s pretty easy… Grab a pen, some paper and a ruler, this will take you less than 5 minutes.

Step 1

You’ve traced out your pattern pieces and the back wing pattern piece looks a little bit like this… Before you cut into your lovely fabric, you need to alter your pattern pieces to fit.

How to adjust your hook and eye to fit your bra sewing pattern

Step 2

Measure the length of the back section where the hook and eye fastener will be attached. Subtract the seam allowance from this number.

Measure how long your hook and eye fastener is and calculate the amount you need to add or subtract.

How to adjust your hook and eye to fit your bra sewing pattern

Some bra sewing patterns do not have a seam allowance along the curved section of the back wing. Generally this depends on the type of elastication that your bra pattern uses, if your bra pattern suggests you use zig zag stitching along this section, you know you will have a seam allowance there. If your bra pattern asks you to sew elastic directly to this section along the curve, you will most likely not have seam allowance here.

How to adjust your hook and eye to fit your bra sewing pattern

Step 3 – Enlarge your pattern piece

Increase the back section by the amount you need including your seam allowance(s) and using a French curve or something similar, draw in a smoothly shaped curve.

How to adjust your hook and eye to fit your bra sewing pattern

Step 4 – Decreasing your pattern piece

You can follow this method to decrease your pattern piece too. Follow the above steps, calculate the difference and reduce the back section accordingly – remember to account for your seam allowances. Draw in a smooth curve with a French curve or something similar.

How to adjust your hook and eye to fit your bra sewing pattern